If it’s damp, wait 12 to 24 hours before checking the soil again. Daily watering is especially important during hot summer months. Most fuchsias like to be watered every day, but under or over-watering can cause the leaves to wilt so it’s wise to check the soil first. Hanging baskets dry out faster than standing pots, so you may need to test the soil twice a day (especially on hot or dry days).
The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist but not sopping wet. If you don’t see water coming out of the drainage holes, they may be clogged or the soil may not be draining properly (in which case, you should re-pot the plant).
Withholding water in the fall will prepare the plant for winter dormancy so it can reenergize and grow beautiful blooms in the spring!
The plant will be in its dormant phase during the winter and your job is to make sure the soil doesn’t get dusty-dry—a little dry is okay.
For instance, if you’re fertilizing a 12 in (30 cm) pot, you might use 7 drops of liquid fertilizer for each 33 fluid ounces (980 mL) of water or sprinkle 3 to 4 tsp (15 to 20 g) of granular fertilizer on top of the soil. If your plant is outside, stop fertilizing it 2 weeks before you bring it inside for the colder months. Bone meal also makes an excellent fertilizer for fuchsia. You can buy it at any garden supply store.
Fuchsias can handle direct lighting but hot afternoon sunlight may burn the leaves.
Strong winds can dry out the plant too quickly. And if it’s hot enough outside, warm winds can cause heat-stress.
Temperatures over 76ºF (24ºC) will stop the plant from growing their beautiful blooms. If your fuchsia is outside, it can tolerate overnight temperatures ranging 50 to 60ºF (10 to 15ºC).
Check your city’s agricultural hardiness zone to see when you can expect the first frost. Any leaves touching a chilly window could get burned from the cold.
Cutting at a 45-degree angle helps prevent disease and allows the plant to take in more moisture and nutrients. If your plant is potted or indoors, prune until the plant is only 4 inches (10 cm) to 8 inches (20 cm) above the soil level.
It may seem like you’re cutting a lot off, but this will allow your fuchsia to grow back healthier and more robust! Save and propagate any of the longer, healthier cuttings if you like.
The pods actually contain seeds. If you don’t pluck them off, your plant may end up covered in pods instead of blooms.
It may seem like overkill to cut the plant back by half, but what remains will be a solid backbone to spur new growth in the spring. If your outdoor plant is growing up against a wall, encourage it to grow to the sides by cutting off stems that jut outward from the wall.
A pack of 3 to 5 sticky traps generally costs $4 to $6 and you can buy them online or at any garden supply store. Outdoor plants are more susceptible to whiteflies.
Aphids also leave behind a sticky substance on the leaves when they suck out the sap.
You can also use neem oil or make your own insecticidal soap.
Other signs of fuchsia rust include dropped or deformed leaves or circular patches of yellowing on the tops of the leaves. If you only notice a few leaves that show signs of fuchsia rust, pick those off right away and keep and eye on the rest of the plant for the next few days. You can also use a fungicide like tebuconazole or triticonazole but these can do more harm than good. If you plan to use them, spray a few leaves and wait a week to see if the plant can take a full fungicidal spray-down. [17] X Trustworthy Source Royal Horticultural Society Leading gardening charity in the U. K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants Go to source
Avoid any blends containing silt or clay because these 2 ingredients will hold onto too much moisture.
The perfect soil will maintain some moisture but allow enough aeration so the roots don’t get too wet. Coco fiber (AKA “coir” fiber) soil is also a great option for fuchsias because it’ll help loosen the texture of more clay-like soil blends.
You can plant up to 6 small plants in a 12 in (30 cm) pot—lots of plants in the same pot means less pruning and quicker blooms in the summer. [21] X Research source
If you’re repotting an existing plant, turn the pot to the side and wiggle the root system out of the soil, shaking off as much of the old soil as you can. If you’re propagating 2 in (5. 1 cm) to 4 in (10 cm) cuttings, you’ll need to fill the pot up with soil and then stick the cuttings 2 inches (5. 1 cm) down into the soil so they can stand upright by themselves.
Gently patting down the soil around each individual plant ensures there are no air pockets. Make sure the top of the soil of each smaller fuchsia comes up about 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) from the top of the pot. This way, they’ll be even when you fill up the pot with soil.
If you’ve transferred the fuchsia into a hanging basket, water it until you see water dripping from the bottom for a good 3 seconds. Don’t fertilize new plants for at least 6 weeks after you repot them because it can stress out the root system while it’s still trying to acclimate to its new environment.
