The most common pins are straight ones. Look for a series of vertical pin holes on the edges of the bands. L-shaped pins look like horizontal bars over the links. That is only part of the pin. The vertical part of the “L” runs down to the opposite edge of the band. With U-shaped pins, your watch band looks like a series of vertical bars. The pins are actually underneath clips on each link. You may be able to see the clips curving down from the edges of the band. Mesh bands don’t have links at all. Instead, a mesh band is a solid piece of flexible metal. The clasp controls the fit.

Make sure the band is relatively loose but not loose enough to slide across your wrist. At the right setting, it will stay put when you wear it. Try to measure it as accurately as possible so you don’t have to go back and make a second adjustment later.

Use a simple marker like the kind young children use. These ones are easy to wash off with a towel and maybe a little bit of water. Avoid anything permanent, since you probably won’t enjoy an unpleasant mark on an otherwise flawless watch.

Some of the links may not have arrows on them. These ones aren’t meant to be removed. If your watch doesn’t have any arrows on it, look carefully at the pin holes. The pins will sit a little deeper inside the band on one side. Reach for them from that side.

You can find pin push tools online or at many hardware stores. Take the opportunity to also get a small hammer and any other gear you need for the adjustment. Some watches have screws instead of pins. They aren’t as common, but the screw heads will be noticeable on one end of the band if your watch has them. Use a small flathead screwdriver instead to remove the bands.

To make this part easier, get a watch working block to hold the watch in place. You could also cut a slit in a piece of foam and put the watch in it. If the pin doesn’t fall out on its own, grab it with your fingers or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Some watches have metal pin tubes called ferrules that fall out as you hammer. If your watch has these, set them aside to put back when you replace the pin.

To keep the band even, plan on removing links in pairs. You may wish to close the band and test the watch against your wrist again after each removal.

Push the pin toward the arrows on the band. The wider end of the pin will end up on top so you can then follow the direction of the arrows again next time you need to adjust the band. If your watch band had ferrules in it, remember to put one at both ends of the pinhole. Tap them in place with the hammer.

If your watch doesn’t have arrows, inspect the edges of each link. If you see small horizontal bars on the links, then you might have an L-shaped pin.

You can get a spring bar tool online and at some hardware stores. If you don’t have a spring bar tool, try finding anything else with a sharp metal point. You could reach the pin using a small pair of pliers, for instance.

The pointed end of spring bar tool is also useful for continuing to lift the pin if you aren’t able to hold onto it with your fingers.

To keep the band even, consider removing a link from each end. Try to avoid taking off more links than you think you need, and close the band to test its fit if you’re not sure.

Keep hammering the pin until it is flush with the top of the watch. The horizontal part of the pin will catch on the band and hide any gaps so your band looks like a single, continuous piece of metal.

You could also stand the watch on a block of wood. As long as the surface is smooth and stable, it won’t damage the watch.

You could also use a spring bar tool, which is like a combination push pin tool and blade made specifically for watches. Many hardware stores carry them, along with any other tools you need, or you can order one online.

If you need to, pull them back with a pair of pliers. Stubborn tabs are easier to bend back this way.

The pins are on both sides of the band. After pulling a pin out, turn the band around and reach in from the other side. Getting all of the pins is a little easier if you approach them from both sides.

Remove an even number of links to keep the band looking its best. To make the process easier, remove adjacent bands instead of alternating ends.

You will need to do the same thing on the other side of the band. Sometimes you can put them both in right away without them falling right back out. If you can’t keep them in place, close the tabs on one end before putting the second pin back.

You don’t have to bend the tabs all the way over. As long as they look neat and hold the pins in place, you don’t need to mess with them. If you need to adjust the watch band again, consider working on a different set of tabs. The tabs weaken a little each time you bend them, so try to avoid opening the same tabs each time.

The lever is often over a small hook that holds the clasp closed. It is a metal bar positioned over the mesh band that moves when you pry it up.

Basically, any small, pointed tool opens the clasp. You could even use something as small as a push pin if you’re out of options.

Always measure out the band in advance to find the proper clasp position. Wipe off the marker when you’re done making the adjustment.

You could also reach the lever with a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Set the pliers on top of the lever, then hit them gently with a hammer to push the lever down. When the clasp locks, the band won’t move around anymore. Make sure your watch is secure before putting it on.